Norco’s Advanced Ride Technology (ART) is an optimization of the proven FSR suspension system which delivers a more efficient pedaling and improved square edge bump compliant ride than ever before. This has been achieved by changing the location of the pivot points to achieve more chain growth and a more rearward axle path. The increased chain growth results in higher anti-squat characteristics which reduces suspension bob, making the bike pedal efficiently. The rearward axle path lets the rear wheel move back at the same time as it moves up to get out of the way of large, square edge bumps more effectively, allowing the bike to roll smoother and faster over rough terrain.
1. Improved Square Edge Bump Compliance
This refers to the suspension absorbing tall bumps where there is rearwards force put on the wheel in addition to vertical force. Figure 3. illustrates the forces involved in a square edge bump. If the wheelpath is rearward, the wheel can move backwards and upwards at the same time to get out of the way of the bump more quickly and efficiently. This allows the bike to roll much smoother and faster over bumpy terrain.
2. Increased pedaling efficiency
When a bicycle accelerates forward, inertia pulls the rider’s weight towards the back which results in compression of the rear suspension. This is known as squat. ART suspension is designed so that when the suspension compresses, the chainstay length increases. This is known as chain growth. When the rider puts force on the pedals, the chain becomes very tight and the bicycle will accelerate forward. The chain tension will also force the suspension to extend. This extension force is known as the anti-squat force because it counteracts the squat caused by the acceleration. With 30% more chain growth than before, ART suspension is designed to resist squat forces and reduce pedal bob, resulting in a highly efficient pedaling platform.
3. Improved Leverage Ratio Curve
A.R..T suspension uses a lower and more progressive leverage ratio to increase the bottom out resistance and improve the tuneability of the suspension. Lowering the leverage ratio reduces the amount of force on the shock which gives the shock greater control of the suspension movement. The adjustment dials on the shock will also have a greater effect on suspension performance, allowing the rider to fine tune the suspension to their liking. A more progressive leverage ratio makes the suspension get stiffer as it gets farther into its travel, giving the suspension that ‘bottomless’ feel.
If there is one place in the world to find the top mountain bike mechanics in the world it is at a World Cup Race. Well, Dirt Norco Race Team mechanic Alastair Beckett was nice enough to go through rear derailleur adjustment for us at the Leogang World Cup. So, if you have ever wanted a little bit of help fixing up your Sram drivetrain, watch through this easy, step-by-step video tutorial.
Norco full suspension bikes have featured adjustable travel for quite some time. In fact, VPS stands for Variable Point Suspension, referring to the adjustable travel. The travel is adjusted by moving the shock position between points A and B. For all 2010 Norco bikes with adjustable travel Point A is the long travel position and Point B is the short travel position. In the 2010 lineup there are several bike that offer this adjustability such as the LT series, Fluid series, Faze 2 and 3 and the Phena. Each of these bikes has two travel options as listed below.
LT 6.1, 6.2, 6.3 – 137mm – 158mm
Fluid SE, 1, 2, 3 – 116mm – 143mm
Faze 2, 3 – 100mm-120mm
Phena – 116mm – 143mm
When adjusting travel between settings on many bikes there are adverse affects that can reduce ride quality or decrease performance. Not on a Norco though… when you change the travel on any of these mentioned bikes the head angle, and BB height remain constant. The only difference is the change in travel and a more or less progressive shock stroke. I.E. The long travel mode has a lower leverage ratio and more progressive stroke. The result – short travel is a linear, more XC type ride while long travel is a more active, agressive setup.
Thanks to Steve Bown for asking to learn more on the matter
It doesn’t happen often but every once in a while I will admit I get caught on the trail without a tube. Not because I didn’t have one, but because I either gave it away or flatted more than once on a ride. I am slightly ashamed to have admitted this but yes, it does happen. This past weekend I went out riding in Port Moody BC with a friend and it happened to be one of those rides. After Eric flatted once, I followed suit. That was no biggie as we both had a tube, but then Eric tried for round two. Three flats, two tubes, 0 patches.
As Eric got ready to start hiking I made a suggestion, one that I am not sure a lot of people have utilized. Tie a knot in the tube and ride out. That is right, this trick is super simple and low tech but can be the difference between a long hike and finishing a great ride.
To fix this flat, you will need to start by finding the hole. Once you do, tie a knot with the hole at the end which is tucked through the knot loop. Pull the knot nice and tight to be sure that it won’t come undone once inflated.
You will see that the tube is significantly smaller in diameter now that it has been tied. You will need to insert the valve, then stretch the tube around the rim before attempting to seat the tire.
Once you get the tube around the rim you can start to work the tire onto the rim. You should be careful that the last bit you are trying to seat is not at the knot as this area has significantly more bulk around it and could be difficult to work with.
Now that the tire is on, you can re-inflate.I wouldn’t suggest inflating to more than 40psi as the tube is significantly stretched and fatigued. This is not a long term fix but should be enough to get you home. Once you start riding you will likely feel the knot as a bump in your tire. It may be a little rough but it sure beats walking.
There are a lot of standards when it comes to bikes and the number seems to get significantly larger every year. Just look at Bottom Brackets over the past decade or so. We have Spanish BB, Euro BB and Mid BB, we have widths of 68mm, 73mm and 83mm. Mounting standards like Square taper, isis, octalink, Hollowtech II, Howitzer, GXP, and now BB30… I probably missed a couple as well.
Each and every one of these standards serves a purpose. They were each developed with the purpose of making the bike, lighter, stronger, faster or smoother. Over time this has meant that some have stuck, others have failed and we will likely see more coming soon.
This is not isolated to Bottom brackets either though. We have numerous standards for hubs, headsets, bars, stems, posts and more. I will do my best in this series of articles to clear up the most confusing of these.
Over the next couple of weeks I will be discussing the most common Mountain Bike Standards:
