A loose headset is one of the easiest repairs that can be done to a bicycle. The only thing easier, is screwing it up.

The first step to tightening your headset is loosening the stem. This is done usually with either a 4mm or 5mm allen key. Loosen off the stem bolts until the handlebars will move relative to the front wheel.

The second step is the beginning of determining why the headset is loose. The tightening process may be as simple as tightening a bolt, but it could also be a little more complicated. What you will need to do is take a 5mm allen key and remove the top cap of the headset. This is the vertically positioned bolt on top of the stem.

Once this bolt is removed there should be a minimum of 2mm and a maximum of 5mm between the top of the stem and the steertube. The stem should extend higher than the steertube of which it attaches to. If the steertube extends beyond the top of the stem you will need to install an additional spacer above or below the stem.

Correct Headset Spacing

Incorrect Headset Spacing

Once the spacing has been corrected or confirmed, you may start tightening the headset. The next step is to tighten the topcap to the desired tension. Tightening the topcap is preloading the headset bearings and needs to be completed while the stem is loose. As you tighten this top bolt, you will find that the steering will eventually tighten up and bind. There is a happy medium between a knocking in the front end and this binding stage that needs to be achieved. If there is play in the headset moving back and forth, continue to tighten. If the steering is tight and does not move smoothly, loosen.

The last step of tightening a headset is to tighten the stem. Before doing so you must align the cockpit with the front wheels. The easiest way to do this is to straddle the bike and line up the stem with the front wheel. When this is aligned you can move on to tighten the stem bolts. Be sure to notice the torque rating for the stem as over-tightening could cause damage.

Voila, you just fixed it!

Dustan

There comes a time in every cyclist’s journey when they get tired, lazy or indifferent and break a chain. Shifting under torque, whether intentional or not is a recipe for a bent or broken chain. This may seem like the end of a ride but chain repair can be completed quicker and easier than even a flat tire – if you have the right tools.

The only tool that you need to fix a broken chain is a chain break. Seems sort of ironic that you fix it with a break. . . . but we will have to roll with it. There are many different types of chain breaks and the image above depicts a shop quality too. You will find that many multi-tools are more convenient while on the trails.

The second piece of equipment that will make the repair much easier is a masterlink. These are available at your local bike shop for a very low price. Using a masterlink to repair a broken chain will result in a stronger link and much saved frustration.

Now onto the repair:

The first step is to remove the broken link. In the above picture you can see that one link is severely bent. This will need to be removed before the chain will be usable once again.

You will need to use your chain break to push out a pin on either side of the broken link. Try not to push the pin out all the way as this way it will be easier to keep track of the pieces. Push out the pins so that you will end up with two inner links.

The next step is to connect the masterlink. Insert the pin from each side of the masterlink into the chain from opposite sides.

Push the two sides of the mastelink together to make a single link.

Pull the chain along its length to lock the masterlink into place.

Voila! You have just repaired a chain.

Dustan

A poorly adjusted derailleur can be the difference between a great ride and throwing your bike into the bush with frustration. Having gears that are crisp and reliable will make you ride better, be more efficient and wear out fewer parts. The concept of setting up your rear derailleur can be daunting yet after breaking it down step by step, you will see that it isn’t so bad.

On a derailleur there are four means of adjustment which will each change a different aspect of your shifting. In this article I will break down each of the adjustments into what they control, and how to set them accordingly. The four types of adjustment are:

• B – Tension Adjustment
• High Limit Screw
• Low Limit Screw
• Cable Tension

B Adjustment

The First means of adjustment is probably the least understood part of any bicycle. The B – Adjustment. If this screw is set up correctly, it is likely that you never even knew it existed. If not then your bike has likely never shifted correctly. The B-Tension adjustment controls the height of the upper pulley in relation to the cog.Winding out this screw will decrease the gap between the pulley and cog while winding it in will increase the gap. If the B adjustment is wound too far in, the derailleur will have a large gap and have a tendency to jump gears. If the adjustment is too far out then the jockey wheel will sandwich the chain between the cog and pulley resulting in a grinding/rubbing sound. The optimal position is where the pulley clears the cog and chain by approximately 2-3mm.

B Adjustment Wound Too Far In

B Adjustment Wound Too Far Out

Correct B Adjustment

The second and third aspect of derailleur adjustment are the two limit screws. These adjustments change the extremes of how far the derailleur can move. If your chain has ever gone into your spokes, you can likely blame an incorrectly adjusted limit screw. Both limit screws are labeled with an H for high and a L for low.

Sram Limit Screws

Shimano Limit Screws

Every derailleur has two limit screws, a high and a low. The easiest way to remember which is which is to think in terms of high speed vs. low speed. The H, or high speed limit screw will control how far towards the outside or smallest cog your derailleur will travel. The L, or low speed adjustment will control how far up towards your spokes the derailleur will travel.

Limit Screw Adjustment

Winding inward (clockwise) both the the high and low limits will shift the derailleur towards the center of the cog. For example, if your derailleur is traveling into the spokes, you will need to wind in the low limit. If you are unable to shift from 2nd into first even manually pushing the derailleur, the low limit needs to be wound out. on the other side, if the chain is falling off of the smallest cog, you will need to wind in the high limit, while if you can not shift from 8th into 9th gear, you will need to wind out the high limit.

On a correctly adjusted derailleur, the pulley wheels will line up directly with the highest and lowest cogs.

Properly aligned High Limit

The last aspect of derailleur adjustment is cable tension. The cable that runs from the shifter to the derailleur is an extremely important aspect of your bike. The tension of this cable will determine if your gears will shift or cause you endless frustration.To adjust the cable we can break it down into a few simple steps.

• Shift into the smallest cog which is your hardest gear.
• Wind in your barrel adjustment in all the way and then out one half turn. This is for both the handlebar barrel and the derailleur if you have one.
• Undo the derailleur cable fixing bolt and pull the cable tight without  moving the derailleur.
• Tighten the fixing bolt without letting any slack into the cable.

Cable Fixing Bolt

At this point your derailleur should be close. To make minor adjustments you will now use the barrel adjuster. When shifting, if the derailleur will not shift up, into an easier gear you will need to wind out the barrel adjuster. Start to turn the barrel in a counter-clockwise rotation 1/4 turn at a time until the gear changes smoothly. If by chance the derailleur does not shift down, into a harder gear, you will want to turn the barrel in a clockwise rotation 1/4 turn at a time until the shift is made.

Barrel Adjuster

As you can see, there is a fair bit to correct derailleur adjustment. Really though, it breaks down into four adjustments and a little bit of patience. If you have any input of adjustment, comment, ask questions, provide your two cents.

Until next time,

Dustan